Where fashion, functionality and sustainability converge, major brands and startups are embracing the idea of 3D printed footwear, mixing style and innovation.
Are 3D printed shoes fashion or functional?
3D printing allows designers to break the boundaries of traditional shoe design, so the past decade has seen a lot of innovative shoe fashion. 3D printed midsoles like those of Adidas 4WRD , have also been shown to actually move runners forward, so it definitely has a function.
Add to the mix the fact that 3D printing allows shoe manufacturers to make shoes on demand instead of keeping them in stock, thus reducing the huge waste problem that plagues the industry. Plus, several companies are now making 3D-printed shoes from eco-friendly materials they say can be returned for recycling, bringing a new and needed focus on sustainability to the market.
This combination of fashion, functionality and sustainability has attracted major brands to dip their toes into 3D printing, all while hoping they can be the next Adidas – with millions of pairs of 3D printed shoes sold worldwide.
Major 3D printer brands ( or have 3D printed ) shoes
- Adidas
- Nike
- New Balance
- Dior
- Peak
- ECCO
- ACIS
- ATHOS
- Fendi
- Cougar
- Decathlon
- Columbia
- Under Armour
- Reebok
- Givenchy
- Balenciaga
Several (actually most) of the brands above no longer offer 3D printed shoes. Either their product was an experiment disguised as a limited edition, or a concept shoe that proved the technology's application but perhaps didn't find its niche or wasn't applicable on a large scale. This does not mean that they have abandoned technology, but for the big global brands, going from one way of making shoes to a completely different way of making shoes is not like "flipping a button".
With a few exceptions, 3D printing technology hasn't matured for the high volumes that big brands need.
For this reason, some of the most prominent companies offering 3D printed shoes today are digitally born startups. They can take advantage of the design freedom that 3D printing allows and also take advantage of other key benefits such as sustainability, customization and on-demand manufacturing.
Upstart shoe design and manufacturing companies like Zellerfeld and the influential shoe designers it partners with, including Heron Preston, KidSuper, Rains and Kitty, are using 3D printing to create uniquely designed shoes – and gaining a following. According to Footwear News magazine, celebrities like Justin Bebiber, Jennifer Lopez, J Balvin and even Elon Musk's baby have been walking around town in 3D printed shoes lately.
3D printing was once limited to custom high-performance shoes for professional athletes and those willing to pay thousands for unique high-fashion shoes. But now, additive manufacturing and footwear brands are seeing new opportunities to address some of the industry's biggest challenges and deliver to customers looking for a custom, eco-friendly, and aesthetic pair.
Why major shoe brands are choosing 3D printing
Adidas
Adidas is the brand's success story in 3D printing in shoes. It released its first 3D-printed shoe, known as the Adidas Futurecraft 3D, in 2017 as a limited-edition concept shoe that featured a 3D-printed midsole tailored to the wearer's individual foot. Although Adidas no longer customizes shoes, this was a leap forward in the use of additive manufacturing for custom shoes.
Since then, and millions of shoes later, Adidas has continued to develop and release 3D printed shoe models and integrate 3D printing technology into other aspects of their shoe design and manufacturing processes.
In 2023, Adidas released new designs of its most popular 3D printed shoe line, the "Adidas 4D" series, which features a 3D printed midsole from a US-based printer and material manufacturer called Carbon. Adidas has a factory in China full of carbon 3D printers producing high volumes of $200+ shoes.
The midsole design, which features a complex lattice structure, transforms vertical pressure into horizontal force. This gives runners a continuous smooth forward transition, the company says. Why 3D printing? Because this midsole cannot be manufactured using traditional manufacturing methods.
Fendi
Fashion house Fendi has enlisted influential architect Kengo Kuma to collaborate on footwear in 2023 that will bring Kuma's signature style to your feet.
The collection's low-top shoes reflect Kuma's innovative use of materials in its architecture. The shoes are reminiscent of Waranshi paper and cork, supported by 3D printed soles that look like the traditional Yatara bamboo weaving technique, according to Fendi.
No durability or functionality here, just pure style. The complex design of the sole cannot be produced with any technology other than 3D printing.
Fendi say Kuma's approach to design centers around the interplay between nature and the craft ethos that permeates his work as an architect and designer. Fendi's invitation to collaborate allowed Kuma to infuse his architectural sensibility into fashion, resulting in a collection that embodies his creative vision.
Dior
Dior
Fashion house Dior sent models down the runway during Paris Fashion Week 2023 in a 3D printed version of its classic Derby shoe.
3D printed in one piece, except for the laces, the massive shoe is actually lightweight and breathable. The brand shared a video detailing the design and manufacturing process, 3D printed with a bed fusion process, apparently HP's Multi Jet Fusion.
The TPU material gives the Derby flexibility and strength. No longer available on the Dior website, we hope the brand will experiment more.
Start-ups and designers are advancing the ambition
Zellerfeld
Startup Zellerfeld might be the biggest 3D-printed shoe company you've never heard of, because they mostly make shoes for other designers. Zellerfeld is enabling industry innovation with its new partnership platform.
Launching in early 2023, the Zellerfeld platform has 3D printed limited edition shoes for influential shoe designers including Moncler, Heron Preston, White Lotus and Rains. They offer a range of custom-made FDM 3D printers running almost non-stop.
Zellerfeld does not maintain inventory and customers can return their shoes for recycling. Each pair is customized and printed to the shape of your feet. You simply upload a scan of your feet with your smartphone.
Koobz
Koobz is another shoe printing platform startup that offers a turnkey solution to "democratize access to shoe manufacturing," it says.
The company says it designed the most efficient factory to "transform footwear manufacturing across America" and empower creators and designers to launch their own shoes.
Featuring only one shoe at the moment, Koobz's concept is similar to Zellerfeld's. They only print when an order is placed to reduce waste, the shoes are made from one material for easier recycling, and they boast that they're made in the USA, so there's no carbon footprint from overseas shipping.
Hilos
Portland-based Hilos, funded by longtime Nike executives, is another startup that hopes to further produce shoes for other brands in the name of sustainability.
Their on-demand 3D printing, with no inventory or waste, will allow them to reverse the trend of excess shoes (that end up in landfills unworn) while offering more sizes and styles. All of their shoe designs are detachable, glue-free, making them easier to recycle.
Hilos currently offers more than a dozen styles, all with 3D printed soles (some resembling wood) and mostly leather uppers. The soles are printed on HP multi jet fusion 3D printers with polyamide.
Elastium
An emerging 3D printed footwear startup in the UAE called Elastium offers fully 3D printed sneakers made from 100% recyclable foam. The company says its shoe is a break from the limitations of traditional manufacturing and creates a sustainable, customizable and comfortable 3D printed shoe.
Elastium's sneakers feature a lattice-structured low-density thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) foam produced using proprietary 3D printing technology, making their sneakers as soft as Crocs while providing cushioning and durability comparable to high-performance sneakers from Nike and Adidas, the startup claims business .
The focus is on rapid localized production on demand. Each pair of Elastium sneakers is printed on demand, which eliminates the costs associated with traditional shoe manufacturing, including the countless intermediate steps of mold making, sewing, gluing, storage, etc., and significantly reduces carbon emissions. IN
In addition, the sneakers are made of TPU foam, which can be recycled into a new pair.
Like Zellerfeld and Hilos, Elastium also plans to become a shoe manufacturing platform for other designers.
Development and prototyping of footwear products
3D printing is well established for shoe prototyping. The technology used during product development greatly accelerates product development and time-to-market for new designs.
3D printing, especially full-color material jetting technology from companies like Stratasys, allows brands to go directly from a digital file to a life-size product.
Individual shoe parts, such as midsoles and soles, can be 3D printed in flexible materials on a wide range of 3D printers in a matter of hours.
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